THE LAKE DISTRICT

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Valdivia was established in the mid 1500s. It is known as the Rivers Area. Rio Calle Calle, Rio Cruces and Rio Valdivia all join here and spill out into the Pacific Ocean. During the earthquake of May 22, 1960 much of the city was destroyed and there are not many historic buildings.

I am not able to find much beauty in the city. Except for the promenade along the river there is not much else to do. We watch the people, the many boats, the shipyard and the sea lions who play around like puppies. We do stick around, because tonight there is a Rotary meeting, we like to attend.
The 19 member, women only club, meet sin the Five start Hotel Valle Rio. It is the same type of meeting we are getting accustomed to in South America, rather formal and very little of the fun like we have at our clubs. They are happy to have visitors and ask us to talk about Rotary in Canada. They do admit they like to put some more energy in the club.

When we return to our hotel we have made some new friends.

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

We cross the bridge to Isla Teja, a high end neighborhood of Valdivia. A second bridge takes us to the west, a forest area where Oncol Park is located. At the southern tip we find the small community of Niebla, where we visti the fort built in 1550. It is rather cool here, I guess about 14 C. and quite windy. Is this what the south is like? I may not be prepared for this. But I need to remind myself that back hoem it is likely 20 below. So I better not complain.

We are lucky that there is a bus load of students who have a guide assigned. We stay close to the group to learn about the history of the fort which was built by Spanish prisoners. When their term was completed they were enticed to join the army, which was not a bad deal at all, because they would be fed and clothed.

We also learn that Valdivia was totally burned down by the natives at one time. It seems that this city was never meant to be.

Several forts were built on the various islands to keep the pirates and enemy out. At this time the country was ruled by the Spaniards. In 1818 the Chileans received their independence, except for this part of the country which was still under Spanish rules.
The Chilean Government hired Lord Cochrane, A “licensed” British pirate. He came up with the clever idea to disguise his ships as Spanish ships, carrying Spanish flags. He attacked each of the forts, eliminating the Spaniards and gave the land back to the Chilean Government.

We take the ferry across to Corral, which is located on the northern tip of another peninsula on the southern edge.
The 1960 earthquake, which registered at 11 points on the richter scale, creating a Tsunami with 11 meter high waves, wiped out the entire village, which was never rebuilt. Now there is only Upper Corral, built along the shore. Everywhere we see signs for a Tsunami escape route. We better not have an earthquake now or tomorrow for that matter. It would be panic.

We visit this fort as well and are treated to a beautiful view fo the river. This place reminds us of the Pacific islands near Vancouver.







We are surprised to see the port area, that serves as an export for both fish and wood chip for the Japanese market for the production of chipboard and paper.
Ramiro reminds me that the South of chile provides lumber to a large part of the world.

We rather not go back to Valdivia to pick up where we left of and continue our trip south. We see a small road on the map that seem to meet up with our route south. We ask several people. “ is that road is suitable for our car”? There is a moment of silence. “It’s a gravel road, why would you want to take that? There is nothing out there”. But that’s exactly what we like; “Nothing out there”. All we need to know is if we can take that road without a 4 X 4.
They look at us as if we are crazy and smile. “Yes, of course you can take that road”.

We don't regret it. It’s slow going and dusty, but the view is spectacular. Here and there is a cow farm. “why would anyone want to live here?” I ask myself, But then I realize that it is for the same reason we came here. To enjoy nature and the peace and quite.
As we meander alongside the rivers, we cross many wooden bridges. doubting if they will hold up. We see green valleys, soft tree covered mountains and water. lots of water.
At a small clearing we stop and prepare a picnic lunch. Without the many flies it would have been just perfect.
We trun off into Puerto Varas at the bottom of Lake Llanquihue, where we are surprised by two more vulcanos. The one being Volcano Osorno.

it’s a bit touristy, but not nearly as bad as Pucon. At least the best chance to find accommodation and lots of places to eat.  The scenery, the large number of backpackers, the streets, the stores, they all remind us of Anchorage, Alaska.