WHERE IS THE BATHROOM?

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

One of the things visiting Chile, is to experience a life that is so different from ours. Other than Government buildings or North American franchises, everything is kept simple; the houses, accommodations, public services and stores.
To earn some money, a person can basically do anything. It’s free for all. You don’t necessarily need expensive equipment or an expensive shop. In a climate such as this, you just spread out your goods on the corner of a street and you are in business. You may not make much money, but at least you try. It’s the scene in many cities or small towns including Hausco which we leave again this morning after stocking up on supplies, ice and water.

As usually, we opt for the road less travelled and often the most beautiful.
We need to backtrack just a few kilometers and cross the bridge, taking us north over the Huasco River.

 

 

The water level is extremely low and exposes a variety of plants. But it is the various birds that make us want to hang around a bit before we head towards the coast again, where wooden vacation homes are scattered across the sand dunes. Some are made with new material, others with recycled. In order to build such a home, the land needs to be purchased and in most cases a sign indicates that the land has been paid for. In many cases squatters take over a piece of land and build their accommodation, which is usually made of old pieces of wood, metal, plastic and tarp.

We enter Llamos de Challe National Park and are not sure what to expect. Other than the various desert plants which are not in bloom unless it rains, there is not much to see other than rocks and sand.

We are in for a treat, when we see two Guanacos at the edge of the canyon. I never thought I would see these deer like Llamas in the wild. They don’t seem to be bothered by us approaching them. But we keep our distance because  they are known to spit at you when they feel threatened.

Strange formations of rocks keep our interest in this barren land and of course the ocean is also an attraction which changes constantly. Early afternoon, we follow a small trail towards a quite beach; a prefect place for lunch. The breeze from the ocean keeps us cool, but that sun is sure bright and hot.

We’re at the end of the coastal road and visit the small village of Carrizal Bajo, a small inlet, where remnants of a 19th century mining port are still visible.
There are not more than 100 very modest homes and shacks. A dirt road leads us to the centre, where a small church seems to make this community official. It’s old and needs some work, but the inside is warm and inviting.

There does not seem to be anything that may provide an income for the local people, but as we explore, we find a small pier where a fishing boat has arrived recently. They carry large loads of both Lapas and Locos. Which are being weighed and measured for research purpose.

Somehow we need to find our way back onto the Main road and must travel inland again, through he desert, following the Carrical Canyon, where we seem to be away from all form of civilization for at least 50 kilometers.

Other than the various shapes of the smooth rounded hills and the low bushes, everything looks the same. There are no signs of life. Until we come to a bend in the road where there seems to a small oasis where olive trees grow. An old mine indicates that there was a reason for living here at one time.

It’s easy enough to follow the principal road; It is covered with tar, to prevent the sand from flying up. Here and there we turn off this road to explore, anything that looks different from the brown and beige mountains and the sand draws our attention. Most of these trails lead to an old abandoned house or a mine. Here and there we do see a house, or shack where people live. We’re not sure how to get back onto the principal road again and are happy to see large trucks in the distance, indicating that the Panamerica, Route 5 is nearby. Imagine getting lost in these hills. How will anyoone every find us.

I do enjoy the slower pace on these roads. It’s much more relaxing, but we need to make some progress, which can only be done on the main road.
Our new guidebook helps us decide where to go next and also includes a list of accommodations.
To spend the night, we have Bahia Ingles in mind. It’s a resort with mostly cabins, vacation homes, hotels and restaurants, which should make it easy. But the place is totally filled up with vacationers. There is no available accommodation. Rather than wasting our time and keep on asking, we continue 6km north to Caldera, where we find a very simple hotel along the promenade, right at the beach. We treat ourselves to a seafood dinner at the fish market and watch the people on the beach.